Post by Doozer on Apr 23, 2010 21:45:07 GMT -5
100992 CSEPHXICE75 Phoenix ICE 75 Brushless ESC
1 $101.96 $101.96
7330 Castle Creations p-Link
1 $24.95 $24.95
1 x Tonic-X Z20A 1470KV Brushless Outrunner Motor with Fan (TX-201470) = $74.95
1 x Combo of (3) Spektrum H5000 Digital Servos (SPMSH5000_3CB) = $145.99
1 x JR DS3500G Ultra Speed Mini Gyro Servo - Mini Heli Tail servo (JRPS3500G) = $79.99
1 x 430mm PRO 3D CF Carbon Fiber main blade - T-REX500/HDX500 (DY-4301) = $21.42
CHP-G012 CHP-G012 Custom Heli Parts - Spektrum Carbon Fiber Servo Double Arms (Offset) (Hurricane 550)
1 $8.99 $8.99
My son bought me the speed control for my birthday. My other son bought me the kit. They aren't rich. They're college kids....
I'm flying a Solid G gyro, with a JR 3500 servo on the tail. Right now I'm using two Hyperion 35C 2100mah lipos. I'm getting 5min30sec and putting back 1650mah. The ICE 75 data log shows a high head speed of 2600rpms. The canopy is a hand painted, by me, Trex-500 canopy. I have more pictures to put up for a more complete build thread, but it wont be for a few days.
::EDIT 4/25/10::
I was going to start this tomorrow but, my eyes popped open at 4:45 AM and I couldn't get back to sleep so here I am
Anyway, there were some things I failed to mention above. I use a JR X9303 for a TX. Why is that important for me to tell you? Well, if I want to use the Gyro gain function on my X9303 I have to have a 7 channel rx at least. In this case I have the R921 rx that came with the radio. I was going to put it in something bigger, but now I'm glad I didn't. If I were to use a AR6100 or a 6200 rx, I'd be adjusting my gain through the gear channel. This is because the only Aux channel available is taken by you're pitch servo on these receivers. Some people like to adjust gain through the gear channel anyway.
Goals for this build:
I've built a few helis. I've taken apart and rebuilt every heli that I own... generally because of a crash, but sometimes just to see the thought that went into it. I'm no expert. Far from it. When I do a build and post it, it helps me. That is why if I've done something wrong I want to know about it. Suggestions are most welcome. If you save me money by keeping my heli from crashing, I'm in your debt.
When I post a build, I do so with the beginner in mind. I tend to take pictures during areas of the build that I find important, or interesting. I've done step by steps... this one isn't. When I originally started this build, I just came off an Outrage G5 build that was very fun but time consuming due to the step by step pics I took. I wasn't very interested in doing that again. So what I thought that I might do here is throw up some build photos, but also go over electronics set up as well. e.g. Setting up the ICE 75, and the Solid G. I'll keep the build photos to things that are fairly important to note. The manual is decent enough to follow.
There are some important things that you should know about programming your Phoenix ICE System. I say system because it's far more than just a speed controller. It's a data logger and a governor too. The Solid G, or any "G" series gyro for that matter, is a highly programmable gyro. Using the "G-View" makes this incredibly simple and you'd be amazed at how much you learn about your tail just by changing your programming.
I fly the Spartan Quark, Align's 750, Logictecs 2100t, and the Mini G as well. The "G" series gyros from Curtis Youngblood are the best gyros I have. Granted, I don't fly 3D, so this may be a flight style choice. Stick bangin' ain't my thing. My only knock on the CYJE gyros are that they don't fly well with the Hyperion G servos, and I'm a Hyperion kind of guy (G is the way Hyperion denotes tail servos i.e. GMD). When you combine the CYJE gyros with Hyperion tail servos, the tail becomes "waggy" and theres no dialing it out. I'm not sure why this happens, but it has happened every time I try the combo. However, since I started flying the Spektrum 5000's and the JR 3500, I'm starting to see value in having a quality servo vs. a good "bang for the buck" servo.
So eventually, I'll go over programming these electronics, complete with pics and screen shots.
The Build
The Frame
On the basic kit, the frame is molded plastic that has been halved down the length of the frame. The frame is secured together by Nuts and Bolts. Blue or Purple thread lock is a must here.
Some people use "Shoe Goop" or CA to secure their bearing in plastic blocks. I use a little Tire CA because it's less brittle. Make sure to use just a small amount. If you get it in the inner race you're screwed, but you want to keep the bearing from spinning inside the mount.
You can generally find this at your LHS.
This is one design feature I really like. Other plastic kits have you bury a screw into plastic. What happens on kits like that is the screw tends to round out the hole over time. Eventually the frame needs to be replaced. Here, Gaui went the extra mile. Nice touch.
Once the bearings are in place you can put the frame together if you want. The manual shows putting the frame together and putting the landing gear on. I'd wait on that. I ended up installing the gears with the frame apart. It was easier for me.
This is the front main gear assembly with one way gear. This is a well thought out way to allow people to tinker with head speed. There are multiple gear ratio options depending on your motor pinion size. The one way gear can be either 19 or 20t and there are quite a few front main gear options. Although, they don't come standard. The basic kit comes with one set of gears (19t/61t). There's no reason you can't get the torque and headspeed that you like with this system. Release the Kraken
This is the one way gear. There is an orientation here. The lettering goes toward the bottom. Get this wrong and you'll be kicking yourself in the a$$. In the first gear assmebly picture you see two washers, those go on either side of this gear. Taking my que from the manual, I applied a little tri-flow to either side of the bearing and stuck the washers on.
The Head
The head and grips came pre-built. Which was kind of a bummer for me. I enjoy putting every part in it's place. That way when something goes wrong, I know how to get there to fix it. Anyway, I took the head completely apart to check for thread lock and found none. Something to note here... be careful handling the spindle with pliers. If you mar it up the least little bit be prepared to sand. It's really a tight fit.
This head is somewhat programmable. Not as programmable as my G5, but certainly more programmable than an Align head. The plastic grips are "iffy" for high head speeds and hard 3D. The upper mixing arms come off a fairly flexible main blade grip arm. The flex is the problem... probably too much for 3D. However, I'm not flying 3D so I'm using these until I wear them out. Then I'll probably switch to metal grips.
The Tail
I build the tail off the boom first, and then I build up the boom off the frame. I've just found it easier to do that way.
Bar none... the best belt I've seen on any helicpoter I've built so far. The inventor of the "Jesus Sandal" would be proud. I don't see this thing wearing out anytime soon.
Not a big fan of "Phillips Head" screws. I could have changed these out, and I would have had I stripped one. I'm using them for now.
Again, the tail blade grips came pre-built and installed on the hub. Here I'm taking them apart to check for thread lock.
Noooop.... none. This is why I wish the manufacturers would just let me build them from the ground up. I can't see it being less expensive to pre-build it. Somebody with less experience may not have known to do this, and it could have been costly.
This is how I install my belts. I use the FM antennae guide and a tie wrap to push the belt through.
Here it arrives on the other end.
Important to note that there is an orientation for the boom. Not all mfg's do this. Make sure the hole lines up with ....
... the tit you see on the left hand side of the picture.
Like I said at the beginning of this section, I like to complete the tail/boom off the frame.
Kit complete. No electronics and I threw on a Fusuno 500 canopy I had laying around.
Here it is next to my 600ESP FBL
Pros: The frame is solid; Tail is solid; Almost all screws are metal-into-metal; Programmable head; Belt is a beast; Multiple gear ratio set-ups; Plenty of room for electronics; Can be stretched easily; Set up for mini or standard servos.
Cons: Plastic grips are "iffy"; Important parts come pre-built; No theadlock on grip bolts; Battery tray not 6S friendly.
This heli flies well. Better than I expected really. No heli is perfect and my "Cons" are nit-picky. This helis "Pros" far outweigh its con's. I don't see any added value in taking this heli carbon fiber. It's a $70 dollar basic kit that flies as well as, if not better than, some of my more expensive CF helis.
The Solid G gyro, coupled with the JR 3500 servo really give this heli some bite in the tail. Tail slides and backwards flight are tight. The ICE 75 Speed Control system is a bit heavy, but it never gets close to warm. If you don't need all the extras, you could get away with the "lite" version of the 75.
The Spektrum 5000 servos are nice, but strip easy. I had an incident with the Fusuno canopy where the swash pushrod caught on the canopy and wouldn't let the pitch servo go negative. While trying to land the heli tipped and the blades struck the ground lightly (I mean no damage light). The pitch servo stripped. Never had that happen before with my hyperions :/ However, the Spektrum servos are very smooth. Not crunchy like the Hyperions.
to be continued....